UNIVERSAL POWER PACKSИсточник:
http://web.archive.org/web/200312041338 ... _packs.htm
It's easier to build these packs than to explain how to
build it. With minor exception, the SLA pack can power
almost anything simple that has four AA cells in it.
Version Two is a NIMH pack perfect for all those AA
batteries you got stuck with just piling up and can be used
on all cameras that Lithium powers by virtue of it's
modular construction and cell changeability.
They can power: Cameras: This pack will power virtually all
digital cameras using the very common 1.7mm "C" center pole
pin out. They are made in varying widths. That is the
little AC plug input. You have to match the camera end to
the camera. There are many different ends you can use.
Flashes: It will power almost all FLASH units using four AA
cells. How well does it work on Flash Units? Excellent,
basically more power than you can use. It provides as much
power as 6-8 sets of NiMH when used with small flash units (
283's) and digital. (very conservative estimate)
Other uses: GPS UNITS, RADIOS, FLASHLIGHTS ON HARDHATS,
BIKE LIGHTS, (2) UNITS Connected serve as Backup for 12V
CAMP RADIOS, EMERGENCY BEACONS, CELL PHONES, PORTABLE TV,
LARGER BATTERY UNITS NEEDING 12V. CB and Ham radios.
WARNING: These battery packs are way beyond in capacity
anything the flash manufacturer dreamed of so: Do not try
to impress your friends with how FAST this thing will
recycle. All you are doing is heating the capacitor and you
will blow the flash unit. The Metz's when used even with
Quantum's carry a warning about excessive flashing too many
times in a row and overheating the unit. This has been a
problem for twenty years in the industry.
Parts Needed: Battery, Charger, Case...
http://web.archive.org/web/200312041338 ... eries.com/
They stock the Battery and Charger. I have dealt with them
for years, almost on a daily basis for my computer/UPS
business. Almost all the parts can be found at a well
equipped battery service store.
I don't stock this stuff. I DO NOT make a profit from this,
in fact this project costs me money. I just told you a good
place to get it at. Go wherever you choose.
The only parts I make are the fake batteries and I only
make one batch a year to tinker with. You can order that
from me. I make nothing else. So the nice folks at D&D help
me out. easy for you and easy for me. I am happy to forward
the business to them. I am not on their payroll, nor do I
work for them.
NEW! I have been given a parts number, #54178. It is for
the BATTERY and Charger combination. Both pieces with one
simple number. NOTE: It includes free shipping on your
first order and major credit cards are accepted. The
charger and the battery are on the way to you, THAT SIMPLE.
That's 3/4 of the battle. Call them, mention the number and
it is shipped. Also the style of the charger may vary
slightly, they are always upgrading.
The Battery:
Here is one of the six volt SLA batteries that are
furnished by D&D. They are also available from Home Depot
in the electrical department. Don't bother the guys in the
battery department. They won't know what you are talking
about. Go to the electrical department.
We used the wire from the extra pigtail furnished in the
box by the charger company and added two spade terminals to
the battery side, and a Molex 2-pin plug from Radio Shack.
This completes the battery side of the project. Stuff the
battery in the Tamrac case and this side of the project is
done. The Molex pins which fit in the plastic part can be
either soldered or crimped. I use shrink tube, (3 to 1) to
finish it off nicely. The Molex plug is found at Radio
Shack. See Next pictures.
Male/Female (Molex) Connector
Brand: Radio Shack Cat.#: 274-222 $1.49
Polarized to assure correct hookup, these adaptable
connectors let you create your own unique plug. Just swap
the male and female pins between the connector halves to
make customized plugs that fit any cable. Think of the plug
as a house. The hot (+) side is in the basement and the
negative (-) is always in the steeple. maintain this
arrangement in both the male and female Molex connector.
Use a single edge razor blade or sharp knife to get rid of
the wings. You don't need them.
Crimp terminals: .093",
Maximum current per circuit: 8 amps,
Maximum voltage circuit: 250 volts.
Of all the plugs I have used and tested, I believe these
are the best for the job at hand and for their versatility.
After all they are used in RC cars and kids can't seem to
do too much damage with them. Also they work well with the
thicker cables and again they may be crimped or soldered.
They are available at all Radio Shack stores and that's
another advantage for us. The plugs that come with the
charger are just too hard to duplicate and leaves us short
in connectors to complete the project for it's total usage
with various end-user applications. I have never had one
fail nor short as I have with coax and modular setups.
The Charger:
After the charger arrives, think carefully before you cut.
The only thing we change is to convert the system to Molex
plugs. The trailer plugs it comes with are a pain in the
arse as explained above.
Just a few quick splices and you are ready to complete the
project. I don't need long cords for chargers I just cut
them to 12inches and use them on my work bench.
The Charger has LED's for the state of charge, full reverse
protection, Autofloat and (new) a smart electronic
PulseMode circuitry. Using a 2 stage "smart" electronic
circuit, the unit brings the battery to full charge.
It then follows up with the exact amount of current needed
to keep the battery at full capacity, without overcharge
damage, INDEFINITELY!
The Case
Here we used the Tamrac Case with a twist. These are phone
clips and by now everyone in the nation knows what they are.
I had a spare pawl and clip from a cell phone leftover and
decided it fits the program nicely. All I did was drill out
the center of the pawl and 1/8" pop-riveted it to the case
with a large fender washer behind it for stability.
It lays flat and snaps off and on my belt as needed. Now go
find a case. This is one of the many Tamrac battery cases
available from B&H Photo Video out of NY. Commonly found in
Blue, Red, Green, Tan and Black. Incredibly perfect fit.
It seems that Tamrac changes the styles and colors more
often than not and it is also available in different
materials from the heavy duty patterned cloth you see here
to ballistic cloth to leather.
Go nuts, have a good time, get what ever you want to stick
it in, but the last time I checked it should have an O8 in
the Tamrac product number to be the right size. Wal-Mart
and Target have small similar bags but this on fits the
best.
Usually when you get a clip with your phone there is a
spare little pawl with a two sided adhesive foam tape.
Forget the tape. Drill out the center for 1/8 inch pop-
rivet. I use a fender washer on the inside and rivet to the
plastic pawl on the outside. The "hole" trick of this is
that the indent on the outside of the pawl is still deep
enough so that it clinks into the receiver on the belt side.
Don't use too long a rivet as it will stick up and not
allow the pawl to click into the receiver thus usually
ending up with a battery pack on the floor.
Purists need do nothing and simply thread their belt on the
case. That was the way it was intended to work. My reason
for adding the clip was I had a couple clips doing nothing
and that on the gadgetmeisters workbench is the signal to
call out the militia.
Cables and Hints:
After the battery is housed in the Tamrac and the charger "
Molexed", you are about 75% done. Now we go into cable
production. You would spend about 35-40 dollars for a cable
from Quantum. You can make all of these you want for about
three dollars each. I have a cable for each flash unit I
have and for GPS's, Bike lights, Helmet cams and lights for
caving, backup phone power and RC controllers etc.
For most flashes and bike lights etc. you Molex one end and
use the two "Fake Batteries" on the other...simple. For
Cameras, we use cables with AC adapter ends.
Cables are nothing more than two stranded wire, similar to
the wire used in Lamps. I said similar. BUT, the best one
is a 16 gauge copper stranded wire made by the Carol Cable
and wire and sold at Home Depot. Why this cable? Simple, I
had some and discovered that it is 16 gauge with very
little resistance, covered in a water proof covering that
will not kink like cheap lamp wire. BUT the kit you got
from D&D has enough wire to make these cables. I further
warn those about using coiled cables from other appliances
or wire of very insignificant size 22-24 gauge is just not
enough.
The one end is easy enough it is one of our molexed plugs.
On the other end are fake batteries. What the heck are fake
batteries? Actually there are two styles.
These are the AC adapter replacements and the other style
are pass -thru batteries made for my variable voltage power
packs. Pictures follow.
Fake Batteries: Model One for Contacts
For devices that do not have a usable AC port, like flashes
we simply replace the NiMH, NiCads or Alkaline with Fake
Batteries.
They are simply 1/2 in dowel material. The Fake Batteries I
use are white and black solid PVC. My address is available
through emailing me and I'll send you a set white and black,
total eight dollars plus freight about a dollar fifty.
When you insert the small screw in this hole it will look
like a battery. These screw's will be the positive and
negative nodes. 1/4 inch down from the top of each make a 1/
8" horizontal hole for the wire lead so it intersects the
screw hole. The adjustable screw allows the amount of
tension in the slot or battery compartment if the spring
tabs ever go soft. Depending on the layout, you might use a
couple blanks in the empty slots so things don't move.
We are replacing the AA batteries in the strobe with fake
batteries that are connected to our Jacobs Battery Pack III.
Mark the + (pos.) and -(neg.) so you don't forget. Use
that nail polish. Make two fake batteries, connect the
wires. File small hole at base of door to accommodate the
wire and you are done.
Fake Batteries: Model Two Pass through Type
These are the pass thru version of the Fake Battery One.
Fake Battery One is not a pass through but a terminal end
that goes in the electronic device. See Model One above on
this page.
These are simply dummy batteries that lower the voltage in
a pack of many NiMH batteries or any other kind of AA.
I made them from 1/2 inch Delrin plastic using a copper
tube inset and countersunk wood screw for the negative and
a conventional screw head for the tit the positive side of
the battery has.
I used a lathe to center the hole after going nuts trying
to use a hand drill to make them equal.
I sell these for eight dollars a set of two. You can make
the same thing and it will work just as well made from 1/2
inch wood dowel which is the way I got started.
I started making Fake Batteries to use with various power
supplies on my workbench repairing cameras and other
electronic gadgets forty years ago.
Simple Voila! They snap in and out exactly like batteries.
The two screws dig into the copper tube, center and form
the pass-through connection. Thus no solder connections.
Common Cable Assemblies: The Vivitar 283/285/285HV
This is the most common strobe ever sold spanning over
thirty years and like natures cockroach is almost
impossible to kill. My battery packs were originally
designed for this strobe almost 35 years ago. It also uses
a lot of power and without a power pack is slower than
molasses in Maine on Jan 15th.
Today, we simply use our fake batteries and permanently
place them in the battery module and run the wire out the
door..
The advantages are the same as for the Nikon strobes.
Take the plug from the battery pack we just built with the
hot (pos) side marked. Attach (splice) a 3 or 4 ft. length
of 18 gauge wire to extend the plug wire to the length you
need. Solder, or add Molex plug, shrink tube. Strip and tin
the other ends 1/2 inch. in.
Open battery compartment door. Take out the battery holder (
module), remove batteries, put the flash away in another
room. You are not modifying the flash only the battery
holder. Grab needle nose pliers and the module only. Remove
the metal tabs at inside base of module and the rivets that
hold them in. Why remove the guts from the module? Because
the Vivitar has internal springs in the strobe and I do not
want any chance of a alignment or shorting problem. No
other metal in there, no other chance. Remember Do nothing
to the strobe, you are only changing the module. It will
easily go back the old way if needed with another battery
module. I have never had anyone reverse the procedure after
using the pack, never. When the module is out of the 283,
look into the 283's battery compartment. At the bottom
there are four tabs inside the 283. Two are joined together.
Disregard these. The other two spring tabs are positive
and negative. Using the module as a guide (it only fits in
one way ) see which one has the battery tit down. This is
the positive. The other gets the negative wired fake
battery. Mark the module with the appropriate sign (+ or -).
If you are confident you know which is which, drill a hole
in the base of the module to pass the cord through. Select
the hole closest to the end that when you close the door
leaves the smallest opening. Hint: it's the square one.
File the door opening to wrap around the cord. Glue or
drill and screw (use empty side compartment) the respective
fake batteries into place. Add tinned leads from the power
cord you just built to module and slide module into place.
File or grind hole in door to accommodate cable coming out.
That's it.
Lo-Tech studio light for Dr. Office
This is a popular combo with plastic surgeons,
dermatologists and Police Departments on super low budgets.
Two 283's, a couple Sto-fens, Flash syncs, a Jacobs battery
pack with the 6V 7 amp hour battery ( $16.00 at Home Depot),
a charger and Voila!
The trick part is the "Minute Timer" used in bathrooms for
heat bulbs. This way the technician has nothing to fool
with.
If they leave the room for more than a few minutes it shuts
the process down. Great for mug shots and when keeping an
eye on the perp is most important.
I am working on the plans for the harness kit for this
arrangement of multiple flash units and will post them if
you need a schematic.
<b>HINTS: SunPak 383 (Thanks to Tom Boyd)</b>
I thought I'd share one piece of info. This has to do with
determining where to place the two fake batteries in the 4-
battery compartments in most flash units where the
batteries are arranged in this manner, viewed from the
battery tops:
My SunPak 383 has this configuration, RED are the connected
or shorted pair. That's the pair you don't use. This is how
you would look at it with the flash in the upright position.
The white/ grey plus and minus are the slots for the fake
batteries.
NOTE: These red boxes are the two contacts NOT to use for
the fake batteries. Hooking them with a power supply hot
will make a toaster!
The bridge between the positive & negative contact springs
is NOT visible when looking into the empty battery
compartment on many models of flashes. Anyone that has a
volt-ohm meter can clamp each alligator clip of the meter
leads to a nail, so they can reach the spring
contacts at the base of the battery compartment. Then use
the meter to check which negative & positive spring
contacts are "shorted" to each other. This is the view
looking at the battery box from the top. We are concerned
with the top plus and minus. The two other poles just carry
the voltage as a pass through.
MOST NIKON FLASHES
Here for example is the very popular Nikon SB-28, basically
the theory of this project stays the same for the SB-28DX
and the SB-80DX. In fact all the strobes made usually
conform to one or two layouts.
They are either in line or they are a box type. In the line
type the positive and negative poles are at the end. The (=)
symbol indicates the center pair are not hot just
connected. We are only concerned with the end pair.
Red are the shorted or pair you don't use. How do we know
which is positive. Simple look at the wiring diagram. Every
battery has a raised or "tit" end. If that goes in the
camera or flash that is the positive. If the diagram shows "
tit" up, it is the negative.
NEW PROJECT BVP-2 (NiMH)
We are developing new ideas for Battery Packs
using your NiMH batteries! VARIABLE POWER PACKS!
We are making use of all those AA's you have accumulated
and hanging around. A universal battery pack that will
allow you to take all your AA batteries and make them to
fit all your devices by adding or subtracting AA cells. The
dead cells will be bypassed by our fake batteries. It will
be inexpensive and is perfect for the new chargers coming
from Ansmann and MAHA POWEREX that can handle either gang
charging or single cell in volume charging. BUT you can
still use that whole box of chargers you got while getting
all those AA's looking for more speed in charging and
forgetting it's capacity of the unit that counts.
So you got 16 batteries laying around the house for your
digital camera but each camera or device uses different
voltages. Fake batteries (model two) and a little time at
the Radio Shack store and a simple solution.
Other combinations using less batteries are available, read
on.
Epoxy two cases together, wire it to your specs.
Use Fake Batteries to change voltage. Flip 9V connector to
other side when power runs out. -Or- wire the two in
parallel for longer duration.
The photo shows 8 batteries which is slightly under ten
volts (8x1.25) minus two fake batteries or 7.4 volts, sound
familiar to you Nikon fans? -Or- get a six battery holder
from those nice guys at Thomas Distributing and you will
have perfect packs which can be assembled and ganged to
make as big a pack as you wish. My MAHA 777 Plus charges
two of the sixes at a time in about an hour and change.
That's twelve Sanyo 1800's in two packs equaling full 7.4
volts and 3600 Mah. The important point is they were all
batteries laying around.
in two packs equaling full 7.4 volts and 3600 Mah. The
important point is they were all batteries laying around.
I just made them into packs for about $1.79 for the plastic
holder.
Then I added a cable for the Nikon plug and a nine volt HD
cap for the holders which were three for a couple dollars
at Radio Shack. Connect the TAB to the Nikon Connector and
you have a battery pack and harness.
So with the fake batteries and the 4-6-8 battery holders
and one charger I can make a Quick pack for virtually any
electrical powered device I need either a backup on or
prime power source. And you can use your collection of
charger you have accumulated. (If you are looking at a
Battery Pack, by now you have come full circle and figured
a pack is better).
Источник:
http://web.archive.org/web/200312041338 ... _packs.htm
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